A wild horse trots alongside me while a giant stone moai, carved centuries ago, lies face-down in the fudge-textured earth just metres away.
This is not your average running route.
Then again, this isn’t your average race.
Designed by UK adventure company Rat Race, I am in the thick of what is believed to be the first ultra-marathon ever staged on Easter Island – one of the most remote inhabited places on Earth.
An estimated 7,750 people call it home, according to latest census data, almost exclusively in the coastal town of Hanga Roa, where daily life revolves heavily around community, church, family and the ocean.
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More than 3,500km from mainland Chile, the tiny volcanic island, known locally as Rapa Nui, is famous for its mysterious moai statues, believed to have been created somewhere between the 13th and 16th centuries.
Around 1,000 of the giant stone figures are scattered across the landscape, some weighing more than 70 tonnes and standing almost 10 metres tall.
For the next week, they provide the backdrop to one of the most extraordinary running adventures I’ve ever experienced. Rat Race specialises in taking runners to spectacular corners of the globe, with locations ranging from Iceland to Mongolia, but this feels like something else entirely.
Alongside the race itself, the itinerary includes three days of hiking and trail running to explore the island before tackling the main 50km ultra-marathon and rounding things off with a couple more days of adventure.
After landing at what must be one of the world’s smallest international airports, all 39 runners check into the same hotel.
The group is wonderfully eclectic. Some have completed multiple 100-mile ultras, while others, like me, are stepping into the unknown.
The youngest is 28, the oldest approaching 70, and everyone seems equally excited to discover one of the world’s most isolated islands.
The days leading up to the race are every bit as memorable as the event itself.
Rather than simply flying in and running, we spend three days exploring the island on foot, gradually piecing together its remarkable history.
One morning takes us along a spectacular 16km coastal trail past ancient caves, ceremonial sites and crumbling archaeological remains before finishing at Anakena Beach.
With its swaying palm trees, white sand and turquoise water, it’s hard to believe this idyllic stretch of coastline belongs to the same island that’s famous for mysterious stone statues.
Another day, we visit Puna Pau, the quarry where many of the moai’s distinctive red topknots were carved, before continuing to Ahu Akivi, where seven moai stand gazing towards the Pacific.
But it’s Rano Kau that steals the show.
Standing on the rim of the vast volcanic crater, I look down over a freshwater lake ringed by lush vegetation while the endless Pacific glitters beyond. It’s one of those places that makes everyone fall silent.
By the time we head back towards Hanga Roa – the island’s main town – following the coastline and skirting the island’s tiny airport, it feels as though we’ve explored an open-air museum. More importantly, the island no longer feels unfamiliar.
So when race morning arrives, setting off at 7am feels less like the start of a competition and more like the grand finale to an unforgettable week of adventure.
As dawn breaks, we gather at the start line, count down together and set off across one of the world’s most extraordinary landscapes.
I’d completed a marathon before, but never 50km.
Thankfully, Rat Race splits the course into four stages with well-stocked aid stations, making the challenge feel far less intimidating than I’d imagined.
Not that it’s easy.
One climb takes us to Maunga Terevaka, the island’s highest point, while another section leaves runners scratching their heads as GPS watches struggle to find the correct route.
Mine eventually dies altogether, as does my roommate Steph’s and we end up joining forces with fellow runner Doug to get through the final miles.
The scenery makes every aching step worthwhile.
Wild horses graze beside ancient archaeological sites. Giant moai appear unexpectedly across rolling hills. Volcanoes rise from emerald-green grasslands while the Pacific stretches endlessly towards the horizon.
Then, with around 5km remaining, the heavens open. Roads through Hanga Roa transform into rivers of reddish-brown water as the volcanic clay dissolves into something resembling hot chocolate.
Nine hours after setting off, I cross the finish line soaked, exhausted but grinning.
It was hard to comprehend the distance I had covered.
Like other endurance challenges I’ve taken on, including mountaineering, the experience reinforced just how important mental resilience is.
Throughout the day, I found myself constantly giving myself little pep talks, breaking the route into manageable sections and focusing only on putting one foot in front of the other.
By the final stretch, my feet were pleading with me to stop.
Thankfully, I escaped without blisters, but they felt heavy and every muscle in my legs ached from hours of alternating between power walking and occasional bursts of jogging.
Crossing the finish line brought an overwhelming sense of relief and achievement, making every aching step worthwhile.
There was little time to rest after the race. We rounded off our trip with a hike around Ahu Tongariki, the largest ceremonial platform on Easter Island, before climbing to the summit of Poike, the island’s second-highest volcano.
But once the race was over and the other runners had departed, I checked into the luxurious Explora Rapa Nui for a well-earned recovery.
The all-inclusive lodge blends seamlessly into the island’s rugged landscape thanks to its organic architecture and offers guided hikes, cycling excursions and immersive cultural experiences.
After covering 100km on foot, I happily gave those a miss, instead spending a couple of days unwinding in the spa, hopping between the hot tub, hut-spaed sauna and outdoor pool to soothe my weary legs.
The lodge’s fresh, organic menu also proved the perfect fuel for recovery after days of pushing my body to its limits.
The moai-shaped medal is a special souvenir.
But it’s the island I’ll remember.
The essentials #
Getting there
Fly from London to Santiago via Paris with British Airways and Air France, then connect to Easter Island (Rapa Nui) with LATAM.
The flight from Santiago takes around five-and-a-half hours.
If you’re breaking up the journey, the Holiday Inn Santiago Airport sits directly opposite the terminal, making it an easy overnight stop. Where to stay
After crossing the finish line, treat yourself to a stay at Explora Rapa Nui. The all-inclusive lodge blends seamlessly into the island’s landscape and includes guided hikes, bike rides and cultural experiences, along with a spa, sauna and outdoor pool to help soothe tired legs.
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